Kering SA appointed Balenciaga designer Demna Gvasalia to oversee a makeover of its struggling Gucci fashion label, disappointing investors who had expected a high-profile external hire.

Kering shares tanked on Friday morning after the group led by Francois-Henri Pinault chose to bet on subversive in-house talent Demna to reinvigorate its Gucci label rather than hiring a big-ticket name from fashion's overheating job market.

The great Gucci reset is here. On Wednesday, the Italian fashion house named Demna, the mononymic designer who transformed Balenciaga from a niche luxury house into one of the most provocative, boundary-breaking brands of the last decade, as its new artistic director. He will be in charge of women’s wear, men’s wear and accessories.